Waves, just like your day, can completely change with little passing time.
The waves of El Porto quickly grew from some waist high low tide peelers to cruisy and super fun well-overhead sets with the changing tide and building swell. An early morning of best friends and frolic in the sun was much needed, and a special appearance by my long lost buddy Alan Matic put a smile on me and bestie Casey Lewis’s face – Alan and I met 8 years ago in college and were at the time both obsessed with surfing; cutting our oceanography class frequently to do some “deeper” and more “immersive” studying of the sea (but only when the waves were pumping).
The rotating world made a morning of salt and afternoon at work zoom by, and speeding home down 190th, I ran up the stairs, changed fast as lightning, and me and my board jammed out and hit the southside pier water just as the sun was flickering against the horizon. The second dip was for contemplation, and as I watched the marvelous orange ball sink down under the now black surface between a few speedy waves, I thought about many things, including my journey, where it has led me, and where I might go from here. In the near future, aka tomorrow night, I’ll be on a plane and will wake up in in San Salvador, El Salvador, ranked number three on “Most Dangerous Cities in the World” (quickly leaving for refuge at the beach of course), and if all goes as planned will be dancing on walls of warm El Salvadorian waters with Kris Hall, Taylor, and Pegi out front of the Roca Sunzal.
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