The start to the weekend came forcefully, and I found myself on the road in a dream state before 6 a.m., landing in Seal Beach to watch my friend compete in the Katin Seal Beach Surfing Championships.
On the beach, everyone was bundled in multiple layers and blankets to hide from the cold, and having just cleaned out my dirty surfmobile, I absentmindedly forgot a jacket or towel. I sat on the beach, teeth chattering, mesmerized by all of the talent in the water and trying not to fall asleep in the cold sand.
It was hard to move, and I was the coldest I felt in months. With every ounce of energy and motivation that I could muster, I lifted myself up and somehow made it to my car, slipped on my freezing wetsuit, and grabbed my trusty blue longboard.
When I hit the Pacific, the water that I knew was frigid somehow felt warm and soothing. Â I danced, I flew, and flew home, eager for rest and the best hot shower of my life.
