Escaping the stormy South Bay conditions again, I headed south for Doheny State Beach for Day 144 of consecutive surf.
Besides being one of my favorite waves to play in, this place has some really special people in and out of the lineup. Â The Doho locals, an eclectic bunch of tight knit surfers, are a large group of fascinatingly caring people. Â I met many of them briefly last summer when venturing down there more often (more swell there in the summer), and learned about and even got to witness some of their kindness. Â For example, one of their crew battled cancer and they all pitched in and raised money to help her, and one person even cut off his back-length hair to show his support when she started losing hers. Â They love their beach with a fierceness and some will bark, regulating the water, but the passion for their spot shows and I love their spirits. Â I more than feel lucky to be acquainted with these all around awesome folks.
