Sangria’s introduces Euro-Asian-American menu

Sangria unveiled a new design with its new menu. Photo by Brent Broza (Brozaphoto.com)

Sangria co-owner Kevin Barry in his recently remodeled Pier Plaza restaurant. Photo by Brent Broza (Brozaphoto.com)

The Spanish beverage called Sangria is the liquid essence of Mediterranean sunlight – wine blended with citrus fruit and sparkling water, flavors that go great with a lazy day at the beach. It is a mystery to me that it isn’t more popular, though I think some of the blame must go to the inferior bottled stuff that is most people’s introduction to the idea. When freshly made, it’s the nectar of the gods.

I therefore had to order some sangria while dining at the Hermosa Pier Plaza restaurant of the same name, an establishment that has recently changed concept for the third or fourth time since opening. They’ve served varying styles of Spanish, Mexican, Asian, and contemporary cuisine before deciding on a compromise – a menu that is a third European, a third Asian, and a third American. This is great if the kitchen has the chops to pull it off, which few do – the culinary techniques that go into a genuine Asian stir-fry, a perfectly grilled steak, and a pasta in roasted tomato sauce really are quite different, and not that many cooks have mastered them all. We were in the area and in the mood for adventure, so decided to find out if this kitchen was up to the challenge.

Sangria co-owner Kevin Barry. Photo by Brent Broza (Brozaphoto.com)

First, of course, my wife and I each ordered a glass of sangria one red and one white. We were more than a bit surprised when two brim-full carafes showed up – had there been a communication error? No, it was just a flamboyant serving style – there was a glassful of sangria in that big container, with a lot of fruit and ice to create an impressive presentation. Our server, a cheerful lady named Leslie, had recommended the red sangria over the white, but we actually liked both – the white tasted a bit more citrusy, the red more robust, but both eminently drinkable.

We had considered ordering one starter from each section of the menu, but nothing in the Asian column interested us, so we ordered European and Western tapas. The papas bravas – roasted potatoes with red bell pepper and chili flakes – and asparagus wrapped in prosciutto with buffalo mozzarella and basil aioli beckoned. On Leslie’s recommendation, we also ordered blackened shrimp in orange tequila sauce. Our server knew whereof she spoke. The shrimp were a winner, the slight smokiness that you get when you cook with tequila balanced nicely with the pepper and citrus. Put this over rice or pasta and I’d happily order it as an entree – I could easily eat a whole plate of these.

The papas bravas were more traditional, with a vigorous but not overly-hot flavor of red pepper flakes and roasted bell pepper. This tapa is often paired with olives and cheese in Spanish bars, so you have something spicy alongside something cooling, and the asparagus with mozzarella and prosciutto fit that flavor profile. The asparagus was not entirely successful because of the way it was presented – two spears of asparagus were wrapped in each bundle together with the cheese, making it difficult to get just a small bite. The same amount of ingredients individually wrapped would have been easier. That quibble aside, the flavor was fine, the basil aioli just the right pairing with the slightly salty prosciutto.

The first Asian item we tried was a seared ahi tuna salad with soba noodles and Asian slaw. This touched all the bases – good miso dressing, wonton crisps for some crunchy texture, mandarin oranges for a touch of citrus, but it wasn’t quite as interesting as the other items. It was done by the book, every element there, but the overall effect was muted.

For our main courses, we again tried some from each column – pork chops with apple compote and seared scallops with avocado relish from the Western menu, a shrimp stir-fry from the Asian section, and paella from the European menu. The American items were the clear favorites; the pork chops a fine rendition of a down-home favorite, tender with just a little char and spice, served with apple compote, mashed potatoes, a vegetable medley, and spinach. The scallops showed that this kitchen has modern ideas down – the six large discs of shellfish were seared perfectly and placed atop a potato pancake along with a lemony sauce and the avocado-tomato relish. This is high-end cooking for the Pier Plaza, and if all the dishes had sustained this level of excitement, I’d be nominating this as one of the best restaurants in Hermosa.

Unfortunately, the other two entrees didn’t live up to this standard. The stir-fry had a bland sauce into which hot red chilli pods had been tossed at the last moment – the chili flavor wasn’t integrated, so it was bland except where it was too hot. The paella was better, but timid – a nice dish of shellfish, calamari, and sausage with rice and bell pepper, but lacking the zest of the true Spanish version. It wasn’t bad, just a bit bland, and it needed some of the exuberance of that tequila shrimp or the scallops.

We still had a little room for dessert, and after learning that all of their offerings were made in-house, we ordered chocolate mousse pie, tiramisu, and bread pudding with strawberry and chocolate drizzle. Though everyone else liked the pie, it was a bit over-sweet for my tastes, and the tiramisu could have used a bit more coffee powder. The bread pudding was a hit with everyone. I’d order this again any day. Each bite brought a different combination of fruit, chocolate, whipped and ice cream, and savory pudding. Of the three desserts it was the hardest to get right, but right it was.

On balance, the food was interesting, even when not entirely successful, and the recently redecorated restaurant had an enjoyable and comfortable vibe. Leslie was an attentive and friendly server, and she had mentioned that Sangria had recently changed their menu and a few things were being worked out. Count this review as a vote of confidence. This kitchen has the skills and ideas, and once they get everything worked out a good dining experience can become a great one.
Sangria is at 68 Pier Avenue in Hermosa, on the Plaza. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner, plenty of parking in rear. Quiet atmosphere early in the evening, loud later. Starters $7-$12, entrees $13-$18. Phone 310-376-4412 (not always answered). B

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