Burger Bar Metamorphosis [restaurant review]
Sean O’Neil serves chicken and bisquits at The Standing Room, which has transformed from an inventive burger bar to an ambitious restaurant that features a fusion of Korean and American flavors. Photo
When The Standing Room opened in Hermosa in 2014 I wrote that they were inventive for a burger joint, a comment some regarded as damning by faint praise. In my defense, I pointed out that though they did offer some sides and entrees the focus on their short menu was definitely on sky-high stacked burgers. Their bar program was also lackluster, with a limited stock and no house specials despite being in a town that was embracing the mixology revolution.
But in regards their burger-centric menu itself, they made what they made very well, so I expected that the place would continue what was working for them and keep the kitchen sending out burgers. I didn’t stop in for quite a while because I didn’t find them that interesting, but then someone showed me a more current menu, which had a much wider range of items. She also mentioned that the place had just invested in a smoker, and even more changes were underway.
That was over a month ago and I have visited several times since then, because what they’re doing now is both audacious and successful. The burgers are still there, as are some sides like the roasted shisito peppers with Chinese sausage and the garlic-soy edamame. But they’ve taken things much further.
There is a fusion of Korean and American flavors at the heart of the cooking here, and that comes together very well in their deviled eggs. Usually any heat in this picnic staple is via horseradish mixed into the yolk stuffing, but here things take a different direction. There’s some spiciness from the chili in the aioli that is under the eggs, but both flavor and texture are provided by the chopped kimchi in the stuffing and topping of spice-cured bacon. There’s a drizzle of gochujang sweet and spicy sauce too, but it’s as much for color as effect, because there’s plenty going on without it.
The peach and burrata cheese salad and deviled eggs at The Standing Room. Photo
Their version of Mexican street corn is more conventional, with Korean seasonings in the drizzle of aioli and a dusting of chopped seaweed to remind you where you are. Heretical as it sounds, I’d prefer this separated from the cob, since the particles of seaweed and cheese along with the oily mayo make it a mess to eat. Any man with a mustache should be issued at least two extra napkins when they order this, and discount coupons for a local dry cleaner should be left on the table.
The Oscar sandwich, made with soft shell crab, avocado, onion, and Thai crab mayo, is also a bit messy but is contained by the bun. It’s reminiscent of an East Coast lobster roll with subtle Southeast Asian influences, and it’s a fantastic lunch item for twelve bucks. Two people could split this and a full size salad and have a great light lunch. If you decide to do that I recommend the summer peach and burrata salad with arugula, bacon chunks, and goat cheese, which has herbal and fruity flavors that will be a nice contrast to the sandwich. It’s Nueske’s bacon rather than something from their own smoker, but that’s fine in this case because simple smoky porkiness is what’s called for here.
The most surprising thing about Standing Room’s new direction is a pair of items that suggest a fusion between Korean food and the flavors of the American South. We had been wary of the fried chicken brined in passionfruit tea because it sounded like it would be overly sweet, which is a common failing of the Korean-style fried chicken that is becoming increasingly popular. Instead the brine subtly added flavors and if the menu hadn’t given it away, we probably would have just scarfed down the meat as delicious. It was first rate fried chicken using boneless thigh meat in a crisp mildly seasoned batter over biscuits and gravy, and the biscuits had a genuine southern lightness and flakiness. The skillet was garnished with bread and butter pickles, with only a few shards of scallion and some daikon to add a little hint of the East. It’s a full dinner for seventeen bucks and a remarkable achievement.
The crispy pork ribs also play it fairly straight, the rib meat smoky and tender as any Texas roadhouse could ask for, the sauce bourbon-based and thick. The potato salad was made with heirloom pee wee and Inca purple potatoes rather than the chunks of russet and was all the better for it, and the whole grain mustard sauce reminded me of German potato salad rather than the yellow American style. I’d have preferred some green salad or cabbage slaw to the carrot slaw simply because I think it would have been a better balance, but there was no faulting the carrot on flavor.
The cocktail program has improved beyond all recognition and the bar now has some world-class whiskies and a pretty good selection of everything else. I recommend the Hermosa, made with bourbon, Carpano vermouth, Luxardo cherry liqueur, and blood orange bitters, but everything I tried here was very well made. They don’t just have a good selection, the bar staff knows what to do with it.
Only two desserts are offered, s’mores and lemon ricotta fritters, and I highly recommend the fritters. (I haven’t tried the s’mores because I have never liked those in any guise.) The fritters are very light and drizzled with raspberry sauce that lends the perfect balance of tart and sweet, a perfect little something to finish a big meal.
The Standing Room has moved far beyond their original concept and gone from being a good quirky burger bar to a restaurant with an original vision. It’s a wonderful and welcome metamorphosis and makes this place into a dining destination.
The Standing Room is at 1320 Hermosa Avenue in Hermosa. Open Mo-We 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., Thu-Fr 11 a.m. – 1 a.m, Sa 9 a.m. – 1 a.m., Su 9 a.m – 10 p.m., street parking or nearby lots, wheelchair access good. Full bar, corkage $10, live music on weekends. Menu at thestandingroomrestaurant.com, phone 310-318-1272. ER