Returning to a restaurant you haven’t visited in a while can be like bumping into an old friend at a party – you’re glad to see them and eager to relive the good old days, but in the back of your mind, you worry that either you or they might have changed too much for you to relate to one another.
There are restaurants in New York City, Hollywood, and other bastions of hipness that make a point of their diffident attitude toward customers.
Restaurants are volatile things, and when one manages to remain both consistent and creative it is a marvel.
The photo of Mama Terano is a bit faded, and diners might wonder why the owner of a popular restaurant didn’t have a better one to hang on the wall.
There will always be a place in the world for restaurants that do a few things very well.
Arabic food has entered the American mainstream, so when you see a place called House of Pita, you have a pretty good idea of what to expect.
I rarely review chain restaurants because they rarely do anything interesting.
The big chalkboard at Sophie’s Place dominates the room, and almost everybody who enters gives it a long, careful look.
The Beach Cities have never been much of a destination when it comes to authentic Asian food.
El Segundo’s Standard Station serves noteworthy sides and tavern standards
Car culture in America has spawned some symbols that are inexplicable to people who regard vehicles unsentimentally.
Fusion cooking has become such a part of the American mainstream that we don’t even hesitate at the idea of a Korean short rib burrito.
Gambrinus opened with a very limited menu and service that was amiable but frequently uncomprehending. The restaurant changed hands about six months ago, and both the selection and the service have changed for the better. The Galickis family all speak fluent English and seem to enjoy explaining Baltic dishes to customers whose knowledge of this cuisine is small to nonexistent, and their preparations of traditional recipes are the best I’ve found in Los Angeles.
When you’re a fan of a restaurant that you think has their food and service just perfect, it’s disheartening to drive by and see a banner announcing a change of name and a new menu.
The first person who told me about Paul Martin’s American Bistro started by saying something puzzling.
Not all of these exotic cuisines are represented on the Peninsula, but there are a few gems within reach. Among them is Dragonfly Thai, a relatively new restaurant on the north side of the Peninsula Center. They’ve only been open for a few months, but they set standards for authenticity and flavor that will be hard to beat. This is a bit surprising because owner Emily Tjakra featured the cuisine of Indonesia, her home country, rather than Thailand at her previous restaurants, the Banyan and Chakra.