Reviews

Restaurant Review: Chelsea

A comic poet and philosopher named Tom Digby invented a word called “plergb” which is automatically redefined each time you use it. When the English language has thoughtlessly failed to provide the perfect adjective, you just use plergb and redefine it to suit your More



A La Carte: Rock Sushi, Ocean Tava lead wave of new restaurants

by Richard Foss
Visiting Royalty… I’m skeptical when any press release calls someone “one of America’s top chefs,” because superlatives are tossed around a lot in the promotion business. That said, the gathering at Sashi next week does boast cooking by chefs with star More



Pollo Grill

In the same way that you wouldn’t expect to go to a place called Just Breakfast after noon, you might try a place called Pollo Grill expecting just chicken. In the case of the establishment by that name in Redondo Beach, you would be wrong on several counts. There are more seafood options than chicken dishes and plenty of beef selections, and where chicken does appear it is not only grilled but roasted, fried, sautéed, and in stew.



Papillon, El Segundo

One thing that may have reduced the popularity of Filipino cooking in America is the preference for cooking with a lot of fat, especially fatty pork. Papillon may therefore be the best possible place for an introduction to this cuisine, because they offer both standard and vegetarian versions of most dishes.



Ocean Diner

The Ocean Diner has only been open for fifteen years, though the decor makes it look more like fifty. Vintage ads and yellowing newspapers announcing victory at Guadalcanal line the walls and old bric-a-brac sits on shelves, creating a convincing stage set of a local diner, circa 1945. The menu matches the decor in most details of style and substance, though I don’t think cafes in the forties offered burritos filled with brown rice and veggies. They certainly did offer pot roast, chili skillets, and spaghetti and meatballs, and we investigated these at a recent dinner.



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