“Surfing big waves isn’t only about the actual act of catching big waves. It’s about making the decisions to drop everything and being at the right place at the right time.” — Scotty Bredesen by Eddie Solt The buoys were banging. It was the first big swell of the season. Ocean Beach, just south of […]
by Morgan Sliff Letting our 12-year-old selves out for a bit, the gang and I charged out at 7:30 this morning, only to be followed by sneaky king of the pier Frank Paine, who brought along a little surprise in the lineup. I turned around only to have water shot in my face, and it […]
Long surf sesh at Torrance Beach, then spontaneous trip to Nicaragua booked. Holy crap. So excited I can’t type. Nuff said.