Ercole’s then as now

At a recent party, someone asked which was the oldest restaurant in the South Bay, and I told her it was Ercole’s in Manhattan Beach. I gave a few details – the founding in 1927 as a family restaurant, gradual evolution into a bar, brief period serving Indonesian food in the 1960s, and return to…

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Small place, short menu, big heart [restaurant review]

It’s surprisingly difficult to find statistics about what take-out food is most popular. A study done a few years ago was widely quoted by people who failed to notice that it was using data from food delivery services, so none of the restaurants that have their own delivery were counted. My guess is pizza, despite…

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Peninsula Natives [Event preview]

The idea that art should reflect the place where it is made is common in music. Jazz artists go to New Orleans to record albums in the hope of picking up that city’s vibe, country crooners trek to Nashville, and the Grateful Dead once went to Egypt because that thought a concert at the pyramids…

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Green beer and other suspect St. Patrick’s Day traditions

Much has been said about the decline of manufacturing in America, but in at least one category we’re still a world-beater. I refer, of course, to manufacturing excuses to drink and party, particularly when it comes to celebrating other people’s cultural heritage. As an example, let us consider St. Patrick’s Day, which is usually commemorated…

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Ribs back home [restaurant review]

I used to travel a lot for work, and would often schedule flights with a long layover in Chicago. If I allowed five hours, there was time to get to the Eastern European neighborhood, buy a heap of the kielbasa and black bread that my mother loved but couldn’t find in LA, and get back…

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A Meeting in the Middle [restaurant review]

Every time I see a sign for a new Mediterranean restaurant, I wonder what they really serve. Though elements like olive oil and beans are used all around that ocean, there are very few recipes that are served at dinner tables on every coast. To call a restaurant Mediterranean almost raises more questions than it…

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In praise of everyday Chinese [restaurant review]

One of the rewards of writing in my own neighborhood is the chance to interact with my readers, a luxury unavailable to those who write for national markets. The most common complaint I get is that I don’t write enough about the places that “real people” go, favoring places that offer new and unusual experiences.…

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Seven tasty meats [restaurant review]

You wouldn’t know it from the number of Japanese steakhouses that have been popping up around town, but the Japanese are relatively new at eating beef. The overwhelmingly Buddhist country banned most cattle consumption in the year 675 and only legalized it in 1868. When it was announced in 1872 that the Emperor himself had…

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