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The Surf Reporto
North swells due, sometime
by Mike Durand
After only sporadic surf for months the South Bay was finally treated to a tolerable week of waves. By no means was it epic, but everyone seems to be a bit more content now. Today, we will get one last gasp of north west energy in the form of chest high-plus surf, but only the most exposed breaks in the South Bay will see this one. Everywhere else in the bay (up to Malibu) should look for waves in the waist high zone.
The surf will get progressively smaller through Sunday, dropping into the longboard only zone, and even that is a question mark. But conditions will be pleasant, with light and variable winds giving us a calm sea. Low a.m. clouds and fog will remain an early morning nuisance, but will give way to sunshine in the afternoon.
Sunday afternoon and Monday promise a NW/SW combo from a medium sized SW swell that’s been brewing in the Southern Hemisphere, and a NW from the Gulf of Alaska .
Late Sunday, south-facing breaks, such as Malibu and those in Orange County can expect waist to chest high conditions, while the best exposed west facing breaks will see are chest high or better sets. The angle of these swells has yet to be conclusively determined.
High pressure is holding our north west swells hostage. The power that's getting down this way is sneaking past Southern California into Northern Baja. The Gulf of Alaska has been cranking out storm after storm and it's only a matter of time until the pattern drops down a few degrees and sends us the thumping winter swells we've all been waiting for.
Everything above Point Conception has been well overhead and Northern Baja has been seeing more than its fair share of swells. A road trip may be in order.
Until next Thursday, this is the MD the surf Dr., with hollow promises. ER