Surfing is my church. The ocean is a whole other universe, and whenever I step into its dimension I get this unexplainable high and a silly grin becomes permanently plastered to my face.
I couldn’t bring myself to leave Ventura yesterday (smoke billowing out from under the hood of my car from an oil leak didn’t help also) so I woke up far north of home, ready for a day filled with dancing on water walls.
My surf day went like this. Paddle out at C street (new favorite spot) and have the best session of my entire life. Jam a few miles down the road to Mondo’s where I met my friend Marissa Coy, bright and bubbly young girl who started a surf-for-a-year journey as well on January 1st. Surf more. Food. Coffee. Skip down to pipes, a few blocks north of C street, and bob next to Taylor Nelson, beautiful and well known longboard surf star, and Vince Felix, winner of the Hermosa Hotdogger Championships Expression Session, Rincon Classic, and quite possibly the best longboarder I’ve had the pleasure surfing with thus far. Watch an amazing sunset from the water, cut up feet on rocks getting out of the beautiful, cleansing, healing, giving, perfect ocean.
With a fried face, tired muscles, and silly grin still stuck, my body left my church, but my mind lingered on.
