The recent waves of Nicaragua left me in a state of wanting.
So far, far down the road I went, the South Bay not providing the level of wave that was playing on repeat in my mind, clouding my vision and pulling me away from responsibilities.
I arrived at Rincon, aka Morgan’s absolute surf heaven. It was somewhat small — maybe waist to chest high on the sets, but the perfect right point-break and its long, steep walls had me quite literally jumping up and down in excitement. I couldn’t have gotten closer to what I saw in my surf dreams.
I can’t possibly find words to describe the feeling in the water. Glistening, glassy perfection, clear water all the way to the sandy wave-ridged bottom, surfing next to Dennis Aaberg (writer of classic surf movie Big Wednesday), then car trouble leading missing work (sorry boss) and a just-as-good session just down the road at C-Street…. just heaven. Thank you Poseidon.
